Monday, September 30, 2013

"The Stars at Night, are Big and Bright, (clap, clap, clap, clap)...

Haime was kidnapped...by me! Well, whats a girl to do when she suffers from wanderlust and her guy is really very content to stay glued to his favorite chair and/or putter around the house? Really, it called for DESPERATE measures and, well, I took them. 

Perhaps I should start at the beginning...

Haime had a birthday coming up and I had been planning a surprise for him for several months preceding the anniversary of his birth (or landing...stay tuned for that theory...).  Well, that's not quite the beginning, I should actually start by telling you that Haime loves astronomy. In fact, chances are, if you happen to stop by our house anytime during the day, you are likely to find him watching some "outer-space" related show on the science channel. He can discuss such things as black holes: do they exist or don't they?; planetary orbits: their relative shape, spin patterns and accompanying moons; the asteroid belt; and he has definite opinions on such things as: Is there other life out there? (I have an opinion on why he is interested in that particular one...)

OK, so my plan was to take Haime to Marfa, Texas, to view the "mystery lights," then to the McDonald Observatory for a "twilight program" followed by a "star party." There were just a couple of things that had me concerned about my plans...how the heck was I going to get Haime to agree to drive 6+ hours to the middle of nowhere and would the weather cooperate? 

If you are familiar with Texas, specifically west Texas, you understand what I mean by driving to the middle of nowhere...If you are not familiar with Texas, let me attempt to illustrate. First, close your eyes and picture your current town or city. Now, imagine that you get into your car and start driving west. Within an hour, you are in "the country." There are no towns or houses, or buildings of any kind. The only signs of civilization you see are the asphalt paved road on which you are driving and about every 90-100 miles, there will be a place to stop and get gas and a sandwich or a highway rest stop where you can answer "nature's call." Now, imagine that with each passing hour, the terrain becomes flatter and more desert like until the only "trees" you see are mesquites and some types of cactus. Finally, imagine doing this drive for about six hours...welcome to the middle of nowhere, aka west Texas. 

So, as you probably guessed, I had to start warming Haime up to this adventure, without ruining the surprise...not easy! I started telling him that he was going to LOVE his birthday present from me. Then, I'd tell him that we were going somewhere for his birthday that he was going to LOVE! Of course, I had to do this intermittently, several times a week (over the course of a couple of months...). Finally, his birthday came and we were off...he only knew where to go from my directions to him while he drove. Of course he had a few guesses as we began our journey but, he never got close. Finally, we stopped at one of the aforementioned rest-stops, about 4 hours into our trek. There was a state map posted on a board there and he checked it for the "you are here" star and finally guessed our destination...when you're in the middle of nowhere, it's easier to guess where you're going because there are very few things worth seeing there...

So, after driving a couple more hours, (and nearly running out of gas), we finally made it to our first stop: Marfa, Texas (population~1980 (+ other worldly visitors?)). If you "google" Marfa, you'll find that some are calling it the "Austin of west Texas" for it's relatively new draw of artsy-types. However, artists aside, there is not a lot to draw you to Marfa. It's located between the Big Bend national park and the Fort Davis mountains. Haime and I are there, however to see the "Marfa Mystery Lights." (key eerie music).

As I said, Haime loves astronomy and likes to debate the existence of life on other planets (or whether they are living among us). These "mystery lights" are right up his alley. There have been stories about these lights since the 19th century. The lights are often see along a stretch of highway 67, just east of Marfa. They are often described as being basketball-sized lights that tend to "pulsate" and change colors (white, red, blue, orange and yellow). They are usually seen just above the horizon and seem to move toward and away from the observers. They sometimes dart about and sometimes seem to converge then separate. The debate is non-ending when attempting to discover what the lights really are. Some suggest they are the souls of Indians killed by white settlers, others suggest the lights are "swamp gas" (be clear, there are NO SWAMPS within 750 miles). Now, confession time: I have seen the lights. About 20 years ago, for Spring Break, I took my sons on a trip to Big Bend with my parents. When we left the park, we decided to go north to Marfa to see the lights. At that time, there was no "viewing station" like the one pictured just above on the left. You simply pulled off of the highway where other cars were parked. The lights we saw that night we mostly red and orange and white. They behaved very much like what I described above. It was actually pretty cool. 

The pictures here, however are shown to contrast what we hoped to see (and what I saw then) and what we actually saw. Unfortunately, it was completely cloudy and rainy and we didn't see anything other than cars coming down from a ridge south of Marfa. We did meet some very interesting people there who were also looking for the lights. One man had grown up in the area and also described the lights, just as I had seen them myself. Haime was not convinced. 

Now, lest you think that our trip was a total bust, let me tell you it was not! We found the most amazing hotel, the El Paisano. The hotel is nothing short of GRAND! We felt like we had just entered into a "time warp" (considering that some believe the lights are UFOs checking out a landing spot, maybe we were right). Everything about the architecture, the decor, the staff, and the quite elegance made us feel welcomed. 

view from our room. looking down
and right from our balcony.
The El Paisano's claim to fame comes from the 1956 movie "Giant." Most of the scenes from the movie, depicting the "Benedict Ranch, Reata" were shot in and around Marfa. While they were on location, the movie's stars stayed at El Paisano.   

Our room was large and the french doors led to a beautiful covered balcony which looked out onto the courtyard. The large, beautiful fountain, which was centered in the courtyard simply added to the relaxing and pampering atmosphere. 

The only part of the hotel that was not "Grand" was the bathroom...think cruise ship bathroom...it was actually comical. We had a wonderful time.


The next morning, we headed to Fort Davis, specifically the Indian Lodge state park. En route, we stopped for lunch at Fort Davis. We toured the grounds which include some historically accurate, restored buildings as well as some parts of the fort that have yet to be restored. What amazed us both was the extremes in the accommodations for the officers, especially the commanding officer, and the enlisted men. It was like comparing a log cabin to the White House. 

The town of Fort Davis was very cute. One thing we remarked on was the fact that even though it is a very small town, (more accurately a "village?"), there was obviously a pride there. The streets, buildings, stores, hotels, businesses, etc were all clean and the "keepers" very friendly and eager to help. It was clear that they were happy that we were there and wanted to ensure we enjoyed ourselves.  Both pictures above are of the same place. Haime especially liked it because he said it reminded him of a place his uncle owned several years ago, in Jerome, AZ. 

After lunch (and the obligatory shopping), we arrived at our "home for the night," at Indian Lodge State Park.  The original part of the Lodge was built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps (one of FDR's programs to get the US out of the great depression). The original part of the Lodge, where we stayed, has 18 inch adobe walls and hand carved cedar furniture. The lodge was built to resemble a multilevel Pueblo village. 

 Our room, through the door on the middle pic above, was spacious with a beautiful view of the valley. There is an original kiva-style fireplace in the corner. Both this hotel and the El Paisano were obviously designed for comfort and as welcoming ends to a visitor's day. The only thing that we needed to do in this room was to remember how to sleep in a double bed. It took a few minutes and some tossing and turning but we figured it out.

Shortly before dusk, we drove to the McDonald observatory. We were really hoping that the skies would clear...much easier to see stars when the sky is clear.

 The observatory is located on the tops of Mount Locke and Mount Fowlkes in the Davis Mountains which offer some of the darkest night skies in the lower 48. Haime and I were both very excited to look through the telescopes and get more information about finding specific constellations and learning as much as we could about where to look and how to "navigate" our way in the night sky.

                                                                 What we hoped to see:


 

                                                    What we saw: 


 OH well, some will say that the cosmos was just not ready for Haime to look into it too closely. Others might suggest that the "mothership" was not ready to take him back aboard yet so it didn't show itself in Marfa, others will say that by being cloudy, Haime will just be forced to journey back out to west Texas and discover more mysteries and find more hidden gems another time. We had a great time and I plan to go back out there again. Haime even suggested that we go to Big Bend sometime in the late winter or spring...maybe there is some latent wanderer gene in him after all...one can hope.

TTFN,

Lois











Wednesday, September 25, 2013

FORE! or is it FOUR!?

If you've read many of my earlier blogs, you'll recall that I've mentioned that Haime LOVES golf, and that Thursdays are one of his "holy days of obligation," that is, he and his "lifetime" golfing buddies play on Thursdays (and Saturdays). When they were all part of the working world, I understood that Thursday was the day of the week that they could all get off work at noon(ish) and get in a round of golf before dark. Now, they are all retired old geezers (adorable geezers, mostly) and could really play anytime they wanted to but, Thursdays are their traditional "golf days." I guess you just shouldn't mess with tradition. 

Well, this week, several of the guys had something "come up" that made it impossible for them to play. Well, Haime and I have not played golf together in YEARS, so, I decided that today was the day to change that. So we hit the "links."  

We went to play at a little 9-hole course in a nearby town because, since we just planned this "spur-of-the-moment" outing, we couldn't get a decent tee-time from our local courses. We played this course together 20+ years ago and decided it would be fun. The course really has everything a golfer would want on a course: water (a river runs through it...sort of), long fairways, interesting par 3's and topographical changes as well.  The other good thing about this course is that it was not crowded. I mean, there were only two other pairs on the course when we arrived and another foursome started playing when we were on the third tee...perfect!

Haime asked how long it had been since I had played a round (of golf...pay attention and keep your mind on the subject at hand, please). Actually, I had played last year in October for my birthday. My older son, Chipper had treated me to a game and we had a blast! One of the good things about not playing regularly is that I seem to have forgotten some of my bad habits from years ago when I played a couple of times a week, (like, not with, Haime). I was overall pleased with my round and honestly, Haime and I had fun together. (SURPRISE!)

As a treat, we decided to have lunch at the "Luling City Market." If you have ever seen the Texas bar-b-que specials on the food networks, you have seen or heard of this place. It is honestly like going back in time. The smoke in the back room, where you select your choices of meats, is so thick, I guarantee you that you could carve your initials in it. If your mouth doesn't start watering from the smells as you walk toward the front door, check your pulse! Personally, I think their ribs are their best meat. However, their sauce!...would make liver almost palatable! This stuff is like liquid sin...you gotta getcha some!

All-in-all, it was a great day. Especially since Haime got home early enough to have his afternoon nap...

TTFN, 

Lois

Wednesday, September 4, 2013

"Long Time Running..."

Well, we never did actually run...but you know what I mean.
After spending the night in West, Montana, we drove back into Yellowstone and turned north. The park is magnificent. It is HUGE! As we re-entered the park, there were dozens of Elk right next to the road. We saw elk, buffalo and several smaller mammals. I was really hoping to see a bear (from a distance), but we didn't. We had decided to exit the park via the north gate so we could see some of the sights in southern Montana, (neither of us had seen any part of Montana, except for the night we spent in West). Near the north gate, we came upon the Mammoth hot springs. As we were approaching, I saw all of the steam and actually thought that we were just approaching yet another glacier basin. The springs were equally amazing. This is definitely a "must see" park and I will absolutely be back when I have several days to spend, just wandering and wondering what I will see around the next bend.


I have to confess, I've always had a romanticized image of Montana...snow everywhere (year-round), roaring fires (again, year-round), gorgeous cowboys "riding the range" (everywhere), quaint towns, etc. Boy, was I disappointed! We drove east through southern Montana toward Billings. I was really expecting Billings to be a replica of Jackson, WY...its not. In fact, there's just really not much to it. We stopped at the "Information Center" in "Old Town Billings" and when we asked what there was to see and do in Billings, we heard...the sound of crickets as the attendants sort of stared at each other for a minute and then started directing us to sites out of town...sad. My bubble burst...I was totally bummed. Oh well, add that to the "been there" category...sad. But I started thinking, (always a dangerous thing for me to do)...maybe, in a few years when I get tired of spending my days exactly as I want to, with no set agenda and no "time-clock" to punch, etc...maybe I should consider becoming a consultant for cities to help increase their tourism. Goodness knows, I am quickly becoming a professional tourist. I know what people like me like to see, do and expect when we are on a "road-trip." Hmmmm, I might be on to something. Anyway, we were soon on our way toward Devil's tower in north-eastern Wyoming.

You know Devil's Tower...remember the potato mountain that Richard Dreyfus's character sculpted in "Close Encounters of the Third Kind"? Well, that's Devil's tower. Honestly, I was really hoping for a sighting of the "mother ship" while we were there. I just kept thinking: "Beam me up, Scotty, there is no intelligent life on this planet..." yep, I'm a Trekkie nerd. Anyway, in my opinion, there is not enough press given to this place. To be honest, it isn't near anything. There is no reason to be at Devil's tower, except to purposely and intentionally go there. So, go there, it is really cool. If you do much research as to the origins or wonder what it actually was or how it was formed, you are going to find that the short story is, no one really knows. There are several conflicting theories. So, of course, I'm going with the "mother ship landing pad" theory...just saying!

Our next stop was in the Southwestern corner of South Dakota...Mt. Rushmore, near Rapid City and the unfinished Crazy Horse memorial. (What most people, including me, until recently, don't know is that Mt. Rushmore is also unfinished.) The original plan called for all four presidents full body to be carved into the hillside. It didn't (and won't) happen, obviously. The monument is still breathtaking! I am a huge art lover, probably because I have very little (read NO) talent. The fact that someone could carve these faces into solid rock, literally hundreds of feet tall, is enough to absolutely BLOW MY MIND!!! I'd have a difficult time creating the mash-potato mountain.... The Crazy Horse monument is just down the road from Mt. Rushmore. It is even more interesting in some regards. One of the biggest differences between the two sculptures is the funding sources. Rushmore received government funds while the Crazy Horse monument is funded privately. Members of the Lakota Indian tribes are ever present and perform ceremonial dances, give history lessons about their culture. The quote under the model (center picture above) is from Crazy Horse: "my lands are where my people lie buried." Both of these places, but especially the Crazy Horse monument will touch a special place in your heart and spirit.

Mom and I talked about some of the gifts we were given on this trip. The first, of course, was our ability to make this journey. But we were also aware of the times our Guardian Angels showed up to guide us through various "scary," uncertain, and long-boring-nothing-to-look-at roads. Then, we saw this rainbow (obviously in the middle of nowhere) and we are positive it's from our Father, just reminding us that He loves us and is with us...so Blessed!!!

Our last "tourist" stop was in Cheyenne, Wyoming. Another very tourist-friendly town...(get a clue Billings, MT!) You have probably seen towns that display large sculptures of items that are of special significance to the town's history or culture...College Station's trains, Austin's guitars, etc. Well, in Cheyenne, its boots. They are displayed in several locations throughout the downtown area and are really cool! Speaking of the downtown area, it is exactly what you'd expect. Remodelled "old" buildings that serve as restaurants, antique shops, vintage clothing/decor/furniture stores and a really cool remodelled train station. We had a great time and weren't at all bothered by the soft rain that fell on us as we meandered. (Thanks for telling me that we "had to stop" in Cheyenne, Laura...you were right, I loved it!)

So, again, all too soon, we headed back home. Our drive back was (thankfully) uneventful and only moderately dull. We drove through most of Nebraska, and while there is not anything spectacular about Nebraska, I have to tell you that their corn crops beat anything I have every seen anywhere else! HOLY CORN TORTILLAS, BIO-DIESEL and FRIED CATFISH! There is A LOT of corn in Nebraska...not much else, but there is CORN! After Nebraska, we turned south and drove through Kansas (my Father's home state), and Oklahoma and arrived home. It was a wonderful journey but I still don't know what we were thinking. While we were out of Texas, most of our days saw high temps in the mid-80s and in some parts, highs were in the 60s; we got back home to highs in the low 100s...what the heck were we thinking? I kept telling mom we should have stayed until early October. Oh well...

TTFN
  Lois